top of page
  • Writer's pictureMingMakes

Sienna Maker Jacket lined pockets

I am progressing through the Sienna Maker Jacket by Closet Core Patterns under the excellent guidance of Lynda Maynard via an 8 week live online course, which includes lifetime access to instructional videos. The classes are at 10am PST and so I am still able to watch them in the UK at 6pm. We watch the short videos (usually 3) during the class and have plenty of opportunity to discuss and ask questions. One of them was on lined patch pockets, my first time sewing these.


Upper body view of young Asian female wearing Sienna Maker Jacket in Merchant & Mills 12oz organic cotton sanded twill in ecru, showing the breast pocket on her left side

I had some beautiful Liberty Tana Lawn in Felda left over from my first Sagebrush Top and thought it would be a lovely fabric to line these pockets.


Front view of the Sagebrush Top by Friday Pattern Company with 3/4 sleeves, made in Liberty Tana Lawn Felda fabric

This post describes how I lined the pockets, you can read the full review of the pattern itself here, which includes my fitting process and lots more photos of the finished jacket and the little details. You can read a review of Lynda's class here.




Breast pocket

Having never sewn lined pockets before, Lynda's instructions were clear and the technique made perfect sense. You essentially sew the lining to the pocket along the top edge, press the pocket and lining edges in and sew together, before topstitching in place.

Open view of the breast pocket of View A of the Sienna Maker Jacket by Closet Core Patterns, showing the Liberty Tana Lawn in Felda fabric lining attached to the pocket of Merchant & Mills 12oz organic cotton sanded twill in ecru, with seam allowances folded and pressed in

Lynda's video was for a plain rectangular pocket but it was straightforward to apply the technique to the outer breast pocket with two angled corners. Clipping the corners also helped to reduce bulk.

The breast pocket of view A of the Sienna Maker Jacket by Closet Core Patterns, showing the Liberty Tana Lawn in Felda fabric lining attached to the pocket, with seam allowances clipped to reduce bulk when folding and pressing in

I did this by pinching the excess and marked with a Prym Aqua Trick Marker where to clip from. I love these pens as you just dab the marks with water to remove them.


Lynda recommends hand-basting at each stage to help keep the seam allowances in place while working on it. This adds a little time but is worth the effort.

Back of lined breast pocket of View A of Sienna Maker Jacket by Closet Core Patterns with seam allowances basted

My pocket was ready to sew onto the front.

Front of lined breast pocket of View A of Sienna Maker Jacket by Closet Core Patterns with seam allowances basted, using Merchant & Mills 12oz organic cotton sanded twill in ecru

Front pockets

I continued with the front pockets which are angled and sit level with the hip, applying the same theory as best I could. I interfaced the breast pocket opening, but decided to interface the whole of the front pockets since they were larger and I imagined I'd use them a lot since they were so spacious.


My brain couldn't quite work out what the finished shape of the lining would be with the angle at the top, and so I cut the lining pieces too large and trimmed them down afterwards.


I sewed them to the top of the pocket and folded in the seam allowances.

Lining fabric using Liberty Tana Lawn in Felda being folded over and pressed for lining the front pockets on view A of the Sienna Maker Jacket by Closet Core Patterns

I did a mitred corner on the right angle and clipped triangles on the other fold lines as above to reduce bulk when folding the seam allowance inside.

Open view of the front pocket of the Sienna Maker Jacket by Closet Core Patterns, lined with Liberty Tana Lawn in Felda and Merchant & Mills 12oz organic cotton sanded twill in ecru, showing seam allowances all pressed in

Lynda demonstrated the a point presser and clapper on turning the corners of the pockets, which I have seen but not particularly seen the advantage of until I saw her use it, and of course promptly ordered one for myself. The ability to turn and press corners in one go was too good to miss.

When folding over the top of the pocket to the inside, I found that it was too long and overlapping the side of the pocket, and so I cut this back. It's a little hard to demonstrate on the paper piece in the photo below since the paper doesn't curve like the fabric would, but it gives an idea of where I needed to trim it.

Paper pattern piece of the front pocket of View A of the Sienna Maker Jacket by Closet Core Patterns showing the excess length when folding over the top of the pocket

I'm not sure it's entirely due to the pattern drafting, it could well be my own pattern piece, since I made all the seam allowances larger to 5/8" / 16mm as recommended by Lynda so you have a bit more fabric to work with when folding and pressing seams. These two marks show the discrepancy I had on the lining which I then trimmed off.

Close up view of the lining of the front pocket of View A of the Sienna Maker Jacket by Closet Core Patterns showing the excess length marked when folding over the top of the pocket

Here is one of the finished pockets, ready to sew onto the jacket.

Lining attached to the back of the front pocket of View A of the Sienna Maker Jacket by Closet Core Patterns, using Liberty Tana Lawn in Felda

Sewing pockets to the jacket

In my head, the last stage of sewing patch pockets on was easy. You put 'em on and sew right? It then dawned on me that the slightest wonkiness would be very obvious, and indeed the breast pocket was wonky on my first attempt, even having hand-basted it in place.


I realised there was still some movement, particularly the rotating motion exaggerated when sewing them in place. Having had several attempts basting a zip before with similar frustrating results, I used the same solution and applied Wonder Tape.

Close up view of using Prym Wonder Tape to secure the front pocket of view A of the Sienna Maker Jacket by Closet Core Patterns to the front piece in Merchant & Mills 12oz organic cotton sanded twill in ecru

It is double-sided tape sticky enough to hold things down, but easy enough to remove or re-stick if needed. It worked a treat. I know it adds some bulk here (although it is meant to wash out), but I preferred the bulkiness to the wonkiness. The difficulty getting it absolutely straight meant I decided not to add the inside pocket. The stitching for this is visible on the outside, plus it would be bulky over the breast and so I was unlikely to use it.


I topstitched the breast pocket in place as slowly and as neatly as I could, using the edge guide foot for my machine. It really helps when needing to stitch a line equidistant from an edge or seam.

Two lines of very neat topstitching on the breast pocket of view A of the Sienna Maker Jacket by Closet Core Patterns, using Merchant & Mills 12oz organic cotton sanded twill in ecru

The difficulty getting the breast pocket straight made me think that I needed to ensure the two larger front pockets were absolutely symmetrical, knowing this would also stand out if they weren't. The pattern instructs you to sew the pockets into the side seams but Lynda recommends moving them slightly away to avoid the bulk it creates there. Here they are pinned in place.

Front pockets pinned to the front pieces of View A of the Sienna Maker Jacket by Closet Core Patterns, slightly away from the side seams, ini Merchant & Mills 12oz organic cotton sanded twill fabric in ecru

By the time I'd got to this stage, my pockets were a bit different in shape and size, so I sewed one on and then pinned the other to look as symmetrical as I could. I decided to match the sides closer to the centre front, thinking any discrepancy would be more obvious here than at the side seams.

One front pocket sewn and one pinned to the front pieces of View A of the Sienna Maker Jacket by Closet Core Patterns, slightly away from the side seams, in Merchant & Mills 12oz organic cotton sanded twill fabric in ecru

I used Wonder Tape again to secure it and topstitched them in place.

Two rows of very neat topstitching on the front pocket of View A of the Sienna Maker Jacket by Closet Core Patterns, slightly away from the side seams, in Merchant & Mills 12oz organic cotton sanded twill fabric in ecru

It adds such a sense of quality and luxury when I look inside the lined pockets.

Inside view of lined pocket of View A of the Sienna Maker Jacket by Closet Core Patterns, showing the lining fabric in Liberty Tana Lawn Felda and the jacket fabric in Merchant & Mills 12oz organic cotton sanded twill in ecru

My full review of the pattern is here.



Find me on Instagram, Facebook, YouTube, Bloglovin' or scroll to the bottom to subscribe to my monthly newsletter.



Links

I have no affiliations, I'm just a keen buyer and user. A UK supplier may be linked, please try to source items from your favourite independent stores.


Related blog posts

157 views

Related Posts

See All

Comments


Kay%20headshot_edited.jpg

Hello and welcome!

I'm Kay, and welcome to my blog where I share tales of my sewing journey, complete with mishaps, mistakes and solutions to help make your journey a smoother one.

Thanks for joining!

Follow me

  • Instagram
  • Facebook
  • YouTube
  • Bloglovin'
  • RSS

 Categories

Tags

Recent posts