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Writer's pictureMingMakes

Fitting the Sienna Maker Jacket

I have had the Closet Core's Sienna Maker Jacket on my list for a while, in particular the longer view A. I like the length of this casual jacket, with a belt to create some shape. It is unlined and with no tricky fastenings so I thought this might be a nice introduction into sewing a jacket for the first time. Given my experience I was thinking to try it in a year or two, but then I saw a Lynda Maynard 8-week online class for it, scheduled to start in a couple of months and thought it was a perfect opportunity to get some guidance, hints and tips for my first such project.


Young Asian female wearing the Sienna Maker Jacket longer view A by Closet Core Patterns in Merchant & Mills 12oz organic sanded twill in ecru

I had heard good things about Lynda's courses online and in forums and so signed up without much hesitation. I was beyond excited to start this, having not sewn anything for a few months, plus I love a good challenge. As usual, I decided to make a toile which Lynda recommends before starting the course which deals with the construction and not the fitting, although she does touch upon some advice for this.


Back view of a young Asian female wearing the Sienna Maker Jacket longer view A by Closet Core Patterns in Merchant & Mills 12oz organic sanded twill in ecru

This post is all about my fitting process. My full review of the jacket can be viewed here with lots more photos of the finished jacket and the little details. You can read my review of Lynda's class here.


Collage of photos of Young Asian female wearing the Sienna Maker Jacket longer view A by Closet Core Patterns in Merchant & Mills 12oz organic sanded twill in ecru, showing details of channel-stitched belt, collar and Hong Kong binding inside the back and view of the back topstitching of the facing.


Sizing

My measurements matched size 4 most closely, but this ended up being too tight around the bust. I attribute this to a larger upper bust measurement than full bust, and so I re-cut a size 6 to allow for more ease. Knowing it was to be a loose-fitting jacket, I didn't do any grading to further refine the fit at this stage. I lengthened the jacket by 4cm.


First toile

Here was my first toile in calico. Note the seam allowances were still present on my toile, so the neckline and armhole do not represent where the seam would be.


I was happy with the fit on the front from the bust downwards, and the amount of ease around the hips, wearing a belted pair of jeans.


Things I noted:


1. Bust point too high

2. Gaping at the front neckline.

3. Large vertical folds on the back.

Front view of calico toile of Sienna Maker Jacket by Closet Core Patterns, pinned along the centre front showing gaping at the front neckline

Here's how I tried to deal with the above issues:


1. Bust point too high

With the rest of the front looking OK, I decided to leave it as is since the course start date was looming.


2. Gaping at the front neckline

Although the jacket isn't worn done up in this way, I thought it might affect how the collar and lapels would sit. I pinned out the excess and then researched how to eliminate these darts.


I came across this very helpful article with video from Alexandra Morgan, which addresses the removal of a back shoulder dart, but I applied the same theory.

Video thumbnail of Alexandra Morgan of In-House Patterns Studio's video on Pattern Fundamentals: Three ways to manage the back shoulder dart

Essentially, Alexandra recommends distributing the ease between the surrounding seams - neckline, shoulder, armhole and centre front. I had 1.5cm in total to ease in. I wasn’t sure whether this would cause an issue on the centre front/lapel, but it was a small amount of around 4mm in each seam, so I decided to keep all the other pieces the same and planned to ease the longer length in rather than try to adjust everything to match. The 4mm in each seam fit within the maximum 1/4" or 6mm that Alexandra recommends for this technique.


This worked really well for me: