Fitting the Kelly Anorak
Having already fitted the Sienna Maker Jacket also by Closet Core Patterns, I already had a headstart on some of the fitting for the Kelly Anorak. I cut the same size 6 and knew I wanted to try an upper rounded back adjustment (RBA), so I went straight for 1.5 cm using the technique here by Sew Sew Live from timestamp 4:26.
I was then going to do the same upper RBA to the back lining piece, but realised this attaches to a back facing so it would be more appropriate to adjust this piece instead. I used the same technique, but cutting my horizontal line at an angle to hit the seam line of the shoulder slope.
I ensured there were right angles again at the fold line and neckline.
I then checked by laying it over the back piece to see that they were the same shape here.
As I started to assemble the jacket, I realised I hadn't done the upper RBA to the back yoke piece. I simply lay this piece on top and traced the shape.
First toile
The size charts and finished garment dimensions for the Sienna Jacket and Kelly Anorak were very similar. I compared the pattern pieces and although the back was pretty much the same, the front seemed much narrower on the Kelly Anorak by about 5cm. I realised this was because I hadn't accounted for the facing which is what the zip would be attached to. I wasn't sure exactly where the centre front would be but I roughly estimated, lining up the raw edge of one side to the notch nearest the raw edge of the other.
Observations
Compared to the Sienna Maker Jacket:
I had similar vertical folds at either side of the back (see photo below of my Sienna Jacket toile). If I'd had more time before the workshop I might have fiddled more with this but I felt it was good enough to progress as it was. If anything, the additional width in the back meant I had more room to move my arms forward.
I didn't have the same gaping at the front neckline.
Second toile
I added sleeves to check the fit further.
Observations
I was happy with sleeve length.
It was reasonably comfortable with a long sleeved top underneath. It was maybe a touch tight around the upper back but felt good enough to proceed as is.
The sleeves felt about right or a tiny bit snug if anything, whereas on the Sienna Jacket they felt on the large side.
On the finished jacket, I did still notice slight tightness around the upper back where it felt as if I needed a little more width and/or length. This is something I'd consider if making this again.
My review of the pattern itself will be posted up here soon.
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